Notes from Hindustan (raw data)
Day is night, up is down, yet this doesn't really bother me. Time and space are there, but your frame of reference is definitely not trivial. As I'm writing this, the events so far on this flight include four full podcasts, ranging from ten minutes to an hour, a movie, an hour of sorting through data for work, some messing around with iPhone games, a rather drawn-out dinner (at effectively 9 am), and that brings us to hour six. The flight isn't even half over yet. My hope was to stay awake and force circadian silliness along a little, but that may be asking too much since other than a few snatches of sleep on the Portland-Newark flight I've been awake for 34 hours. Even with a long nap, I'll have little trouble sleeping in Mumbai. Pity that the flight to Indore is at 0620 and my flight arrives at 2030 and is getting in late.
Nov 1
India may be diverss in styles of dress, and it does have that "multicultural" vibe, but just looking at faces, they're all rather similar. The best approximation that comes to mind is Hispanic, but voluntary unification here is still just one or two generations back. Colonial south America had a caste system, though it was much more racial, and despite the rigidity of the Indian system, it appears to be as obvious as octaroons and whites in Pudd'nhead Wilson.
Nov 2
Namaste! Pronunciation of cities in India: one simple rule, accentuate the bad! Internet connection here is not so good, wifi doesn't work. It recognizes the router but no data is transferred. This is unfortunate, as the all-knowing Internet is my cure to looking like a fool. Ah well, I guess it's unavoidable. On a more serious note, the recent fire in Jaipur has some similarities to one that happened just to the west some years ago. This time it's an Indian company, but the basic problem remains: dangerous industries near residential areas without "defense in depth" engineering.
Nov 3
26/11, which was the coordinated attack in Mumbai last year, may happen again, or so the Indian gov't alleges. What's bizarre is that the news directly accuses Pakistan (aka "Pak"), not any sub- or international group like al-Qaeda. Ah well, if they choose the anniversary I'll be out of the country. Interestingly, November has a significance I hadn't thought of for India-most international travelers come around now: it's after Diwali and after the wet season when the weather is nice and cool.
Nov 4
Despite being the swankiest hotel in Indore. this place isn't exactly all of the comforts of home. The power goes out every so often, and the a/c is a little overenthusiastic. Nothing major, just little annoyances. Despite my wacky preadjustment, I still find myself going to bed early, typically without dinner since lunch tends to be a fairly big meal.
Nov 5
There's a typo on the business cards I had made for this trip. It's really quite embarrassing, and I wish I had more of my normal cards. Bah, I might actually try to have some sent. $75 minimum, and they won't get here until next week. Vanity, I guess, but I hate that unprofessional look. I guess I can't lose a sale, but especially overseas appearing that you know what you're talking about is crucial to FDA's buzzphrase "voluntary compliance."
Nov 7
I'm reminded of a blog post on the BBC about a shopping trip in New York: they were surprised that they saw no shootings, and that overall they felt safer than they did in the UK. The US obsession with guns definitely doesn't help. That the shooter survived is unusual, that this kind of shooting takes place is not. There was a smaller event at Ft. Lewis when I was there just a few months ago, though that was not a religious dispute. The military probably isn't big on being PC, and that the man was exposed to hotheaded kids who were treating this as a new Crusade isn't unlikely. "Obama half Muslin" may be a joke to me, but there are definitely Americans who think that way.
As a side note, Cambodia hiring Shinawatra is one of the most... unusual choices in political news I've seen in a while. It'd be like Iran hiring Bush.
Nov 8
Still not feeling all that great, between a little sunburn, and some gastrointestinal fun. It's probably not good that I'm taking an NSAID a day, plus meclizine plus malarone plus loperamide. I should probably get out and do some shopping, considering that this is the one of two "free" days I have in the three weeks here without travel or work (though I'm poking at doing some work right now). Given that I'm charging most things, I might actually end up with almost all of the rupees I walked in with.
This day is almost over, and it feels somewhat wasted, TV and reports and such, things I can do in the US, but I don't have a good sense of what to buy if I were to do my Xmas shopping here. Other than Indian style clothes, which would be put in a closet and forgotten, the things you can buy in India are the same things you can buy in the US and there's no point dragging them around the world. Bangkok had silk and gems and awful jokes, but I'm basically coming up blank for India.
Nov 8
Week two begins, Not much to say, other than "second verse, same as the first,"
Nov 9
Hospitals in India just don't work at the same standards US hospitals do. For one, they tend to be rather dirty places, and they don't give the impression of meticulous sterility that I associate with US hospitals or even just your average office. Then again, much of India seems that way, with no shortage of litter in the streets.
Nov 13
Haven't been taking much in the way of notes, but it's Friday the 13th, so something noteworthy has to happen, right? There was a bit of a cyclone that's persisting, so weather in Indore looks like weather in Portland, apparently very unusual. Mumbai was apparently hit worst, with the cyclone proceeding north toward the Bay of Bengal.
Nov 14
I'm taking a "milk run" flight from Indore to Hyderabad, with two stops including Bhopal, the capital of Madhya Pradesh. The 25th anniversary of the infamous events there has been in the news lately, and reports are that the site is still dangerous, though exactly how dangerous is debated.
Here's to hoping that Hyderabad isn't quite as depressing as Indore.
Nov 15
Hyderabad is a little bit more like Bangkok: there is obvious poverty, but there's also some obvious wealth. The airport is about a year old and about the size of OMA or BOI though Hyderabad has a much larger population. The airport in Indore, commercial, medical, and education hub of Madhya Pradesh, was similar to the Ithaca airport, maybe smaller. The other thing that is striking about Rajiv Gandhi Int'l is that none of the advertising space has been purchased, there are just a lot of "filler" ads that read "your brand here." Immediately after you leave the sprawling gardens of the airport grounds, there are three massive billboards with ads for cement, followed by a few ads for fashionable clothing, one with an elegantly dressed woman in a seductive pose accompanied by a mistake in English grammar. English may be a common language here, but the number of spelling and grammar mistakes even in formal documents makes it clear it's not a primary language. I was particularly amused that cardiovascular and urogenital were spelled right but cigarette was spelled wrong. It never devolves to the point of Engrish, but given that it's an official language I have some expectations.
There is a road, a "flyway" in the local lingo, that was recently built from the airport to downtown. It's an elevated highway that doesn't allow two and three-wheeled vehicles (90%of the road traffic I've seen so far). Cows and dogs were also absent, but maybe they haven't discovered it yet. The road is made of joined sections with rough connections and there are several sets of speed bumps, so I'd hesitate to use the term "expressway."
Did some touristy things today, some of which were pretty cheap. Bought some things, probably got a bad deal, but it won't break the bank. This whole haggling thing is frustrating, but I guess that's just my stinginess rearing its ugly head. The 1k rs tour wasn't worth the price, for sure, and meals at the hotel are actually more expensive than at the US, but I guess this is expensive for Hyderabad.
Nov 17
Raining here now as well, I must have brought Portland weather with me. Not sure why I've been so tired lately, but I'm definitely looking forward to some vegetable time when I get back. I should probably start thinking about adjusting back to US time, but work first. There's something about this latest audit that seems unusual. Maybe I'm just getting paranoid.
Nov 18
Rain again, though I've been in a windowless room all day and haven't really noticed. Work is still bothersome, but not catastrophic.
Nov 19
As I was riding back to the hotel, shuffle on this device picked up what might be one of the least appropriate songs possible, Jesus Bleibet Meine Freude. That song, or really anything by JSB, is the antithesis of anything that resembles traffic in India.
Then again, the "hero" of Bizet's Carmen (another selection on this device) is probably not something to talk about in this particular country.
Nov 21
Last day in India, and I should probably get out and do some more touristy things, but I'm eager to get home. Then again I won't be staying long, since I'll be leaving for Iowa shortly afterward. There's something draining about being here that I can't quite place a finger on.
Dumb observation #974: the part of the moon that is lit with a less than full moon is different closer to the equator.
Nov 22
As I'm writing this, I am 35,000 feet above Afghanistan, passing Kabul according to the in-flight map. The flight took a rather indirect path through Pakistan, and I'll have to look at a map to see what's north-central to north-east of Pakistan. China, maybe? All else equal, I'd rather crash in Tibet than in Afghanistan, but the Himalayas are sort of in the way. Not crashing at all is, of course, a better choice.
Nov 22
Since 3 PM IST yesterday, I have spent 10 hours in airports and 19 hours in the air. I have flown over the border between two unhappy neighbors with nuclear weapons, over one of the most war-torn countries on the planet, over Borat's homeland, over Russia and the arctic circle over Greenland and just east of the Hudson bay. In short, I have all the frequent flier miles that I want for a while. Too bad I'm leaving again in less than two days.
(transcribed from iPhone notepad function)


